Recipe

Matcha Tiramisu

Matcha tiramisu replaces the coffee soak with matcha, which sounds trivial and is not. Coffee is a thin liquid that ladyfingers drink politely. Matcha is a suspension that either sits on the surface or drags the biscuit into mush. Getting it right is mostly about the soak, and about accepting that this dessert needs more matcha than seems sensible.

The short answer. Whisk 8g of matcha into 200ml of hot water and cool it. Beat 250g mascarpone with 300ml whipped cream and 80g sugar. Dip ladyfingers in the matcha for one second each, layer, chill four hours, dust with sifted matcha at the moment of serving.

The soak is the whole recipe

Ladyfingers are dry sponge, and they absorb liquid fast. Coffee tiramisu tolerates a two second dip. A matcha soak is thicker and clings, so one second per side is the limit, and the biscuit should still feel firm in the middle when you lay it down. It will continue absorbing moisture from the cream for the next four hours, which is the actual mechanism by which tiramisu sets. Soak it properly wet at the start and you will be serving green soup.

Dose: 8g, and do not reduce it

Mascarpone is roughly 44% fat, and fat mutes matcha aggressively. 8g across a dish of six to eight servings sounds like a lot next to a 2g bowl, but most of it is in the soak, where it is diluted through 200ml of water and then partly left behind in the bowl. Cut it to 4g and the dessert tastes of sweet cream with a green tint.

No raw eggs, and why that is not a shortcut

Classic tiramisu uses raw yolks in a zabaglione for richness and structure. This version uses whipped cream folded into mascarpone instead, which is safer, faster, and holds its shape better in a warm kitchen. The trade is a slightly lighter mouthfeel. In Indian summer conditions the whipped cream version is the more reliable one by a wide margin, and it will not weep if it sits out during a dinner.

Grade: culinary for the soak, better for the dust

Use a culinary grade for the 8g in the soak, where it is competing with sugar, cream and biscuit. If you want, use a small amount of a better ceremonial grade for the final dusting, because that matcha is eaten dry and undiluted and it is the first thing that hits the tongue. This is a genuine, cheap upgrade, and the only place in the dessert where a premium tin earns its price.

Dust at the table, not before

Matcha dusted onto a cold, moist surface starts absorbing water immediately. Within an hour a beautiful even green layer turns patchy and dark, and within a few hours it looks brown. Sift the dusting matcha over the dish in front of the people eating it, or at most a minute or two before. Every photograph of a sad, mottled matcha tiramisu is a picture of matcha dusted too early.

Mascarpone substitutions in India

Mascarpone is expensive and inconsistently available. Full-fat cream cheese thinned with a little cream is the standard substitute and works well, though it is tangier. Hung curd is often suggested and is not a good swap here, because its acidity fights matcha's savoury character rather than supporting it as it does with coffee. If you use cream cheese, drop the sugar slightly, since the tang reads as needing less sweetness than it actually does.

Timing

Four hours minimum in the fridge, and overnight is better. Tiramisu is one of the few desserts that improves on day two, because moisture continues equalising between the biscuit and the cream. It does not improve on day three. Matcha oxidises, and by then the layers have gone visibly olive.

Matcha Tiramisu

A no bake matcha tiramisu made with mascarpone and whipped cream instead of raw eggs. Six to eight servings, four hours to set.

6 to 8 servings Total 4h 25min Dessert
  • 8g culinary grade matcha, sifted, for the soak
  • 200ml water at 75 to 80 degrees Celsius
  • 250g mascarpone, at room temperature
  • 300ml cold whipping cream
  • 80g caster sugar
  • About 200g ladyfinger or savoiardi biscuits
  • 2g good ceremonial grade matcha, for dusting
  1. Make the soak. Whisk 8g of sifted matcha into 200ml of water at 75 to 80 degrees until completely smooth, then leave it to cool to room temperature. A warm soak will melt the cream layer.
  2. Whip and combine. Whip the cold cream with the sugar to soft peaks. Separately beat the mascarpone until smooth, then fold the cream through it in two additions.
  3. Dip fast. Dip each ladyfinger in the cooled matcha for no more than one second per side. The centre should still feel firm.
  4. Layer. Lay a tight single layer of soaked biscuits in the dish, spread half the cream over it, then repeat with a second layer of biscuits and the remaining cream. Smooth the top.
  5. Chill. Cover and refrigerate for at least four hours, or overnight for a better set.
  6. Dust at the table. Sift 2g of good matcha over the top immediately before serving, not in advance, or the dusting will turn patchy and dark.

Matcha Tiramisu: questions

How much matcha goes in matcha tiramisu?

About 8g in the soak for a six to eight serving dish, plus roughly 2g for the final dusting. That is far more than a single drink uses, because the soak is diluted through 200ml of water and much of it stays in the bowl, and because mascarpone's fat content mutes matcha heavily.

Can I make matcha tiramisu without raw eggs?

Yes, and it is the better choice in a warm kitchen. Folding whipped cream into mascarpone replaces the raw yolk zabaglione, sets more reliably, and will not weep if the dish sits out. The texture is slightly lighter.

Why did my matcha tiramisu turn out soggy?

You soaked the ladyfingers too long. Matcha soak is thicker than coffee and clings, so one second per side is the limit and the biscuit should still be firm in the middle when you lay it down. It absorbs more moisture from the cream over the next four hours, which is what makes it set.

When should I dust the matcha on top?

Immediately before serving. Matcha dusted onto a cold moist surface absorbs water and goes patchy within an hour and brownish within a few. Sift it at the table.

What can I use instead of mascarpone?

Full-fat cream cheese loosened with a little cream is the closest substitute, though tangier, so reduce the sugar slightly. Avoid hung curd here. Its acidity works against matcha's savoury character in a way it does not with coffee.

How long does matcha tiramisu keep?

It is better on day two than day one, because moisture equalises between biscuit and cream. Day three is too late. Matcha oxidises and the layers turn visibly olive.

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